 By: Ron Wickman, Architect
Exerpt from Total Access magazine
What you need to know to ensure your new ramp is safe and attractive.
As an architect who specializes in barrier-free design, the majority of my work involves home renovations. With new house design, I always attempt to eliminate the need for a ramp through on-grade access and avoiding steps. But, in almost every instance, a home renovation designed to improve accessibility involves some sort of a ramp or combination of ramps.
After being involved with more than 50 “accessible” home renovations, I realize that there are many ways to effectively design and construct a ramp.
What are the factors that determine the choice of ramp? Expense is often a primary concern. Another is how much space the ramp will take up. There are other concerns: Who will be using the ramp, and will this person’s abilities change over time? What kind of wheelchair is the person using, and is someone assisting this person? Is the ramp going to be used for temporary or permanent use? Where can the ramp be located, and are there any city zoning conflicts? How can the ramp be designed to be aesthetically pleasing?
As a basic standard and starting point, I usually specify a permanent ramp, complete with 12" diameter x 12'-0" deep concrete piles, 4" x 4" pressure treated (P.T.) wood posts, a 2" x 6" P.T. wood joist undercarriage, and a 2" x 6" cedar deck to finish it off. This is a ramp that will not move very easily--even in Edmonton’s extreme temperatures.
When finished with cedar handrails, this ramp typically costs approximately $100 per lineal foot.
Yes, a well-constructed ramp can be appear to be expensive at first glance; however, it will last a very long time and require few repairs in the future. In my experience, it’s well worth constructing the ramp right in the first place. If budget is a problem, look around for any opportunities for financial assistance—for example, the Canada Mortgage and Housing Corporation (CMHC) has an accessibility modification program for low-income homeowners.
The national building code dictates that the minimum slope for a ramp shall be 1:12; therefore, a ramp that must move up three feet must be 36 feet long. A ramp this long will take up an incredible amount of front or backyard space. And obviously, the longer a ramp is, the more it will cost to construct.
There are alternatives. For starters, it may be better to address this type of elevation change by using a vertical porch lift instead of a ramp. However, it may be possible to build the ramp with a steeper slope—particularly if isn’t going to be the only means of access into the home. People with greater abilities, people who use power wheelchairs, or people who are being assisted on the ramp may be able to negotiate a slightly steeper slope.
This is also true if the ramp is needed only temporarily. The real advantage of a temporary ramp is that it is more flexible in its use; the need to abide by municipal development bylaws or the desire to achieve a more pleasing appearance often don’t have to be factored in with a temporary ramp. However, a permanent ramp will be constructed to meet all municipal development bylaws and building codes; it can also be designed to be the most aesthetically advantageous. Finishing the ramp to match the house or incorporating positive landscaping will go a long way to blending it in with the appearance of the house.
Probably the most difficult issue with ramp construction in Edmonton and other areas of Canada, where snow and freezing rain are a factor, is finding the most suitable and safe ramp surface. There really is no one ramp, non-slip surface that works well in freezing rain. Again, the most appropriate surface will depend on a number of different issues.
Concrete is my favorite surface to use because it’s the most durable and easiest to maintain. It’s also easy to finish concrete with a permanent, rough, non-slip texture. However, concrete can be expensive and, and as a result, is often cost-prohibitive when the ramp must be 20 feet or longer.
Wood is the most common type of ramp that I work with, mainly because most ramps that I design are longer than 20 feet, and a wood ramp is the least expensive to construct. The wood surface itself can be finished in a number of non-slip ways.
-Paint with sand in it is by far the least expensive way; however, it must be redone about every three (3) years, and keep in mind that it doesn’t hold up well to shoveling.
-“Grit” paint is a specially designed paint that is very durable, long-lasting and easy to maintain. However, it’s about three times the cost of the typical paint with sand it in.
-Grip tape is a “sandpaper” surface tape commonly used on stairs nosings to help create a non-slip surface. This tape can be added to a ramp surface, but tends to help an assistant rather than the person in the wheelchair.
-Raised wood strips, like the grip tape, can be added to a ramp surface more to aid an assistant rather than the individual in the wheelchair.
-Vinyl or rubber surfaces are often used in playgrounds and at ice arenas. The material is durable, easy to maintain and non-slip when wet; it is also often made from recycled materials such as tires. However, these surfaces are very expensive, and can be very slippery when they get icy; a great deal of maintenance is required when there are freezing rain conditions.
-An electric heated mat can cover a ramp surface and melt the ice and snow. This is a very positive but expensive solution, making it not that common.
The final ramp surface material is metal. Metal ramps are often used for temporary modular design, and can be very useful in extreme cold weather conditions, like Canada’s far north. Metal ramps are very flexible and extremely durable. However, they have a price tag to match. The metal ramp surface is typically grated metal, which lets snow and rain fall through. This grated metal is a good idea when only an individual in a wheelchair is using the ramp. However, the metal surface can become slippery for people walking on the ramp. Not only that, metal surfaces can be painful for those with bare feet, and downright dangerous for those in high heel shoes.
Again, there is no perfect non-slip surface, and the best way I know to ensure a ramp stays non-slip is to ensure it’s properly maintained. All in all, an effective ramp needs proper design and sound construction. There’s a great deal of literature on the design of ramps in terms of the Building Code and critical dimensions. Putting these specifications into practice, however, can be tricky, and there’s very precious little been written on actual construction techniques and alternatives.
My advice? Tackle it if you’re handy and ambitious—but please take it seriously. I’ve seen too many ramps hastily designed and constructed, with the result being dangerous contraptions that are often also eyesores.
If you at all doubt your abilities to design and build a safe, effective ramp that blends attractively into your property’s surroundings, heed your inner voice and let someone with experience in designing and building ramps take over. Letting professionals do the job will ensure that the ramp is designed to best utilize space and harmonize with your landscaping, and constructed to be cost effective and safe.
As with any building project, don’t hesitate to ask both designer and builder for references, and follow other generally accepted procedures when contracting these professionals.
Ron Wickman is an award-winning architect specializing in barrier-free design. |
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